Armhole garment and method of making



Dec. 6, 1949 w. NAGEL 2,490,701

ABMHOLE GARMENT AND METHOD OF MAKING Filed March 11, 1949 I N VEN TOR.

Wiiizvz we Patented Dec. 6, 1949 ARMHOLE GARMENT AND METHOD William Nagel, Pelham N. Y.

Application March .11, 1949,Seria1'No."80,926

4 Claims.

This invention relates to garments made or woven textile material and provided with armlioles so as to extend over and cover the front andback of the wearer. Such type of garments, which I term arm-hole garments, comprises men's womens and childrens outer shirts and undersh'irts, blouses, jackets, vests, coats, smocks, paf amas and the like.

An important object of my invention is to provide an arm-hole garment capable of affording a trim and comfortable fit and which at the same time is adapted to yield in a cross-wise -direction between the shoulder blades to allow the wearer greater freedom of movement in bend 'mg over or in flexing the arms.

Another object of my invention is to provide an arm-hole garment of the above character in which the front and back portions of the garment are formed in one piece so as to avoid cross-seams in the vicinity of the shoulders where the :garment is usually subjected to maximum stress.

Still another object of my invention is to provide an arm-hole garment of the above character in which the material comprising the back portion of the garment is cut on a bias to aiford stretch between the shoulder blades.

Other objects and advantages will be apparent from the following detailed description nf a pre- .ferred embodiment of the invention, reference being made to the annexed drawing in which:

Figure 1 is a front view of a mens outer shirt;

Figure 2 is a back view of the shirt;

Figure 3 is a layout of one of the two halfsections which are adapted to be stitched together to form the front and back portions of the shirt;

Figure 4 is a detailed cross-sectional view taken on the line 4-4 of Fig. 2 showing the manner in which the shirt sections are stitched together; and

Figure 5 illustrates the same garment construction embodied in the coat of a pair of mens pajamas.

In Figures 1 and 2 of the drawing are illustrated front and back views of a mens shirt made of woven cloth, the warp threads extending in the direction of the lines indicated in the drawing. The shirt is composed of two counterpart sections A and B, each section constituting a front portion I and a back portion 2 and the tWo sections being stitched together along a seam 3 extending vertically and medially along the back. Sleeves 4 and a collar 5 complete the shirt.

A layout of the shirt section A as cut from a web of woven cloth is illustrated in Figure 3. The unitary front and back portions I and '2 are of approximately equal length, the side edges 6 and "of the front portion being disposed more or less parallel to thewarp threads 'of the cloth and the corresponding side edges :Ga and 1a 'of the back portion extending at an angle of approximately 45 degrees to the warp threads. A semicircular shaped cut-out -8 'is provided adjacent the intersection of the side edges 45 and 6a, and a somewhat'larger sized semidircu-laushaped cutout 9 is formed adjacent the intersection "of the side edges 1 and la.

The shirt section B is of the same contour as the section Aso that by reversing one of the "sec- 'tions and stitching together the juxtaposed corresponding inner side edges to of the two sections 'via the seam 3, the two cut-outs "-8 cooperate to form the neck opening of the shirt. The two outer sideedges l and la of each of both sections are similarly stitched together closing the cut-outs 9 to form the arm-holes-of the shirt. The i-nner side edges -'6 of the two companion "section-s A and B overlap at the front of the shirt and-areprovided'with button fastenings H. The sleeves 4 are sewn onto the arm-holes and the collar 5 is secured to the neck opening in the usual manner. In order 'to strengthen the shirt :at'the seams the marginal edges of the :material are .double-zfolded-and stitched down :as indicated :at 3a in Fig-uiie :4.

The scOat'C of a pair :of mens pajamas shown in Figure 5 is illustrative rof iothersammehole :garments besides shirts to which the method of manufacture described above is applicable.

By reason of the construction just described, the front portion of the garment has its warp threads extending longitudinally and parallel to the center line of the garment in a conventional manner while in the back portion the threads are disposed on a bias relative to the center line thus allowing the material to stretch when the wearer bends over or flexes his arms. This construction not only adds to the comfort of the wearer but it obviates excessive strain upon the seams of the garment. Because the front and back portions of each of the companion sections A and B are made in one piece, the manufacture of the shirt is simplified while at the same time the usual shoulder seams in arm-hole garments is eliminated.

Since such shoulder seams are especially subject to strain during the normal course of wear of a garment, an important cause of shirt damage is eliminated as a result of my garment construction. By the terms center line and centrally as applied to the garment is meant a direction extending midwidth of the garment from its top (neck portion) to its bottom (tail portion). By the term unitary as used herein is meant inone-piece-with, as distinguished from stitched or otherwise mechanically united.

Manifestly the arm-hole garment described above and the method of its manufacture are subject to modification by those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit of my invention as defined by the following claims.

I claim:

1. A method of making arm-hole garments which comprises severing two counterpart blanks of woven textile material, each blank constituting elongated, unitary and angularly related front and back portions of a garment with the warp extending substantially parallel to the length of the front portion and at an angle to the length of the back portion, forming cut-outs defining armhole and neck openings for the garment within opposite edges of each blank approximately midlength thereof, assembling the blanks in sideby-side reversed relation and stitching together corresponding inner side edges of the back portions of the blanks to form a seam extending centrally down the back of the garment and also stitching together the outer side edges of each of the front and back portions of the blanks to close the arm-hole openings and form seams extending lengthwise along the sides of the garment.

2. A method of making arm-hole garments which comprises severing two counterpart blanks of woven textile material, each blank constituting elongated, unitary and angularly related front and back portions of a garment with the warp extending substantially parallel to the length of the front portion and at an angle to the length of the back portion, forming cut-outs defining armhole and neck openings for the garment within opposite edges of each blank approximately midlength thereof, assembling the blanks in side-byside reversed relation and stitching together corresponding inner side edges of the back portions of the blanks to form a seam extending centrally down the back of the garment, folding the assembled blanks upon a line extending crosswise between the arm-hole openings, stitching together the outer side edges of each of the front and back portions of the blanks to close the arm-hole openings and form seams extending lengthwise along the sides of the garment, and securing a collar to the margins of the neck opening.

3. An arm-hole garment of woven cloth comprising two sections of similar outline stitched together edge-to-edge along a seam extending lengthwise and centrally of the back of the garment and the two sections also being stitched together along seams extending lengthwise along the sides of the garment, each of said sections defining unitary, elongated front and back portions of the garment with the warp of the front portion extending substantially lengthwise thereof and the warp of the back portion extending at an angle to its length, and cut-outs in opposite longitudinal edges of said sections located approximately mid-length thereof, one cut-out of each section defining an arm hole and the other outout of the same section cooperating with a similar cut-out in the companion section to provide a neck opening in the garment.

4. A mens shirt made of woven cloth comprising two sections of similar outline stitched together edge-to-edge along a seam extending lengthwise and centrally of the shirt, each of said sections defining unitary front and back portions with the front portion extending parallel to the war of the cloth and the back portion extending on a bias thereto, and the warp of the back portions of the two sections extending in reversed relation at approximately right angles to each other, semi-circular cut-outs in opposite longitudinal edges of each of said sections located approximately mid-length thereof, one cut-out of each section defining an arm hole and the other cut-out of the same section cooperating with a similar cut-out in the companion section to provide a neck opening in the garment, sleeves stitched to the edges of the arm-holes, a collar stitched to the edges of the neck opening and cooperating fastening means secured to the juxta posed edges of the front portions of the two sections.

WILLIAM NAGEL.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 2,086,235 Oppenheim July 6, 1937 2,341,798 Lesser Feb. 15, 1944 

